Ryan R Young, made some notes on my longarm quilting machine, to help better explain what I had done, so here are his notes:                                                                                                                             

Notes on converting home sewing machines to long-arm

Monday, 01.21.2019

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Source Material

This note is intended to supplement the YouTube video and blog posts of Ms Anne Marie Sullivan.  She wanted a long arm, and did not let her lack of knowledge in mechanics or welding stop her.  She used common sense, YouTube videos, and apparently  a little help from her more mechanically/electrically inclined son, and she prevailed. We should all be so willing and determined.

https://youtu.be/tNOe6cDudlY?fbclid=IwAR2xTGZaF9OJ0y08iPF-1pTiT2RrWxjPwyFUfXr78ReJ RkVf28GnaYurSV8​  The finished machine in action.

https://amscreates.blogspot.com/search/label/making%20a%20long%20arm​ her blog, with a LOT more detail.

I HAVE NOT TRIED ANY OF THIS ON A REAL SEWING MACHINE; this note  based on 35 years of engineering experience on ships and boats, and 5 years of fiddling with sewing machines.

I suspect others have done this - I haven’t found their web pages or their posting in bulletin boards.

Machines to hack

Old Singers

What we’re after is a cast iron, straight stitch machine. Old, but not TOO old (1920 to 1950 is the sweet spot).  Singers were high quality, made in large quantities, and parts are readily available; in my view they should be your first choice.

1.       66.  This is what Anne used.  This was the top of the line, the biggest machine Singer made, from the 1910’s into the 1950’s.

  

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-class-66-sewing-machine .html 

2.       99.  Slightly smaller, but if we’re stretching it anyway, who cares?  More commonly available, may be a little cheaper.  Mechanically almost identical.  Roughly the same vintage. From 1911 to 1958.  ​http://www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/99k/  

3.       201.  Replaced the 66, and acclaimed as the best straight stitch machine ever made. 1929 to the early 1960’s.  Up until 1951, they were cast iron, later models were aluminum.  Mechanically, the later machines were very similar, but the styling was more angular, and they were MUCH lighter. 

4.       15-91.  “Potted” gear drive  motor like the 201s. 1930’s to the early 1950’s. The very similar 15-90 has a belt drive motor and would be another good choice.

5.       There are OLDER Singers (15, 115, 27, 28, 127, 128, “New Family”) but they were generally treadle machines from the start, although sometimes converted to electric motors and they sometimes take weird needles and bobbins; I’d leave them alone, with the possible exceptions of the 127 or 128.  There are LATER Singer Straight stitch machines (the 301 comes to mind) but they are NOT Cast Iron, and they are such​ nice machines on their own, I wouldn’t chose one to hack.  Most later Singers (all the other 300 series, 400, 500s)  used cast aluminum chassis, and had zig-zag, making them harder to convert.  There is a myriad of Singer industrial machines (95s, 96s and MORE) that might work, but they are even heavier than the cast iron home machines, and parts are harder to find, but they stitch up to 4200 stitches per minute! (home machines are lucky to break 1000).

Old Singer CLONES

There are tons of generic Singer clones (the 99 being the model most likely to be cloned). Some are American (Sears Roebuck carried Singer clones from various manufacturers) european, others Japanese (well into the 1950’s).  Again, you want cast iron, straight stitch.

Other vintage machines

Ideally, you’d like a cast iron, electric, straight stitch machine, that uses bobbins and needles you can easily get, and an arm that at its narrowest point is round, or nearly so. Something from the 1920’s to the 1950’s.

There are only two sizes of needles that are EASILY available, the 15X1 (AKA 130/705H) used on anything evenly remotely modern, and the 206X13 size used on some Singers (Singer 306, 319, 320).  20X1 you can get New Old Stock  from specialists on E-Bay, or you can set a 15X1 low in the needle clamp

https://www.quiltingroomwithmel.com/2016/08/quick-needle-tricks-to-use-in-emergency.ht ml .​ 

Here is a needle list for damn near every machine ever made; it’s perhaps best to avoid anything that uses anything but the 3 sizes just mentioned: http://ismacs.net/needle_and_shank/pdfs/ismacs-needle-list.pdf​ but for the brave, Treadle Lady on E-bay has has both New Old Stock and brand new needles in a few other sizes. https://www.etsy.com/shop/TreadleLady?ref=l2-shop-info-avatar&section_id=12034501  

Bobbins - almost any size/shape of the typical modern short cylindrical bobbin will work and seem to be pretty easy to find (Class 15, Class 66, etc); “long” bobbins used on shuttle machines are far harder to find, but they are out there, try E-Bay or https://shop.sew-classic.com/Shuttle-long-Bobbins-Singer-27-127-28-128-others-5-Pack-SC BN8228.htm

White was one of the biggies, and they made machines for other marketers like

Montgomery Ward and Sears Roebuck.  Goodrich, National, Domestic, New Home are a few other brands.  Presser feet and other parts will be harder to come by, but E-Bay is your friend.

Welding

Welding cast iron is considered a little sporty, compared to welding steel, but the parts we’re concerned with are very lightly loaded, and the strength considerations people repairing engine blocks and cylinder heads worry about matter not.  TIG is nice (what Anne used) but the equipment is expensive, and it needs shielding gas. MIG would be OK, even with flux core wire and no shielding gas, and you can get cheap MIG setups from Harbor Freight and/or Canadian Tire.  For these methods, it’s best to use a rod or wire with a high Nickel content (​ERCuAl-A2 is one such), and a little pre-heat would not hurt, but ordinary​     consumables MIGHT work for this non-critical application on clean metal.  For stick welding try ​https://www.muggyweld.com/product/exhaust-manifold-repair-kit/​ their special rods are designed for this application.  Gas BRAZING with Aluminum Bronze filler and the appropriate flux will work as well, or you can TIG with this filler.

For welding the pipe to the head/body, take a look at weld joint diagrams, and think “fillet weld” or “Lap Weld” where the pipe (NOT Galvanized!) is jammed onto the body of the machine. ​https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fillet_weld 

Don’t skimp on filler metal.  You’re going to grind the top of the bed flat afterwards, and you don’t want “undercut” anywhere.

It MAY be possible to weld, braze, or solder an aluminum (or, “pot metal”, an alloy with a lot of Zinc in it for lower melting point, but good mechanical properties) machine; the Muggyweld people have products that might work if you must go there, most welding supply places will have other ideas/products.  TIG or MIG might work, Stick welding WILL NOT.  Anne didn’t to it that way, and I haven’t either.

Metal for the bed plate

Most big box home stores carry mild steel in various sizes (¼” thick is plenty), but often not wide enough, as Anne experienced.  Most larger metropolitan areas have a steel supply place that will retail small quantities. Try “Metal Supermarkets”  (a national/Canadian chain, https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/​) and ask if they have any “drops”, the scraps from cutting or shearing plate to suit particular sizes OTHER customers needed. “Drops” will be cheaper than cutting the chunk you need from a “stick”, you might even get them for free. “Hot Rolled Steel Plate” is about what is wanted, but “Strip” or “Cold Rolled Steel” are other words to suggest.  Steel fabricators or welding shops are other possible sources for suitable “drops”.

A rib under the bed would be nice. You could get this by cutting the web of an I-beam to get your bed, or by welding two L-section pieces of steel together back to back, or an L and a flat plate.

Extending the shafts

See what shafts we’re on about: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/images/singer-66-oiling-diagram-1.jpg

The upper shaft is the big deal.  The slender rear shaft under the bed drives the bobbin, and the bigger shaft in the front of the bed drives the feed dogs; both of the under-bed shafts oscillate rather than rotate, on 66s at least.  Rotary hook machines, the bobbin drive WILL rotate.

You may be able to find the right diameters in the same rack at the big box store you find the steel plate, or try these sources:

1.       Places catering to makers of robots http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/unkeyed-shafts.html  

2.       The aforementioned Metal Supermarkets

3.       Grainger, McMaster Carr - industrial hardware stores.  They have extensive on-line catalogs, but also local stores in many areas.

4.       Distributors of small mechanical/drive parts, like http://www.sdp-si.com/products/Couplings/index.php

If you are working with a European or Japanese machine, you’ll likely need metric shafts.  A cheap Harbor Freight digital micrometer or dial caliper will help figure this out.

IF you cannot pull the shafts out completely and replace them with longer numbers, you will need couplings.  They should be “rigid” or “sleeve” couplings.  Very well stocked hardware stores MIGHT carry them, or numbers 1, 3 or 4 above. https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/shaft-couplings-collars-and-univer sal-joints/rigid-couplings?attrs=Material+-+Couplings%7CSteel~~System+of+Measurement %7CInch&filters=attrs​ for examples. It looks like Anne fabricated her own. Even if you CAN pull the upper shaft for instance, machining (flats, splines, keyways) at either the handwheel end or the needle bar end may make a one piece shaft beyond your skill level. Anne’s method of cutting the shafts in half and using two couplings will work no matter what configuration you find.

You could also solder or braze a close-fitting piece of pipe or tubing OVER the shafts to be joined to act as a coupling. 

WIth a tight fit (less than .010” difference between the outer diameter of the shaft and the inner diameter of the sleeve) and a lot of overlap between the sleeve and the shaft, you might even be able to get away with using epoxy or cyanoacrylate (“Super”) glue to glue the couplings to the shaft. ​https://www.jbweld.com/​ or Loctite Retaining Compounds (638, 648,

660 or 680)

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-21443-Retaining-Compound-Strength/dp/B000O01E U6 

IF you are SURE you never want to use the feed dogs again (commercial long arm machines don’t have them!), you could get away with NOT restoring the feed dog shaft (Anne didn’t), going so far as removing the dogs themselves out of the area of the needle plate/bobbin case, but consider that having a huge harp to work a big quilt ​WITH A WALKING FOOT might be an attractive option. 

Anne drilled and tapped the existing bobbin shaft to extend it.

Consider the SEQUENCE of re-assembly of the head. Do you weld the pipe to the cast iron frame pieces FIRST, or after at least dry-fitting the shafts?

Some design points

The use of shelf brackets to hold the head firmly in relation to the bed is BRILLIANT.  Anne drilled and TAPPED machine screws , at least 2 for each portion (bed and head), on both sides (no less than 8 total in other words).  This step is absolutely crucial to a machine that will sew properly when you’re done.

The “windows” in the top of the pipe are to work the shaft couplers.  You may not need them if you can source a one piece shaft long enough to span your new arm, or you may need only one.

Use a thread locker (Loctite or it’s equivalent) on all threaded fasteners for your lengthened shafts when you final assemble your machine.

Anne’s machine is set up with a toggle switch (looks like an IKEA floor lamp switch) and what seems to be a fixed resistance to drive her machine at a relatively slow, constant speed.  I have no details on how she did it; she implies her son helped her on that point. Older electric machines use a big variable resistor to alter the voltage being fed to the motor. A big wire wound or carbon FIXED resistor could be used, or you could McGyver something up by adding a switch in line with the existing foot controller that you mechanically set to a comfortable speed.

I would cut the head at the narrowest part of the neck, and chose a pipe or mechanical tubing that fit over this neck, with a little bit of clearance, so that the cast iron machine pieces fit INTO the pipe/tube at least a half an inch.

Timing the machine

HOW to time the machine is beyond the scope of this note; I just want to emphasize its importance.   Timing is the relationship between the action of the bobbin case or shuttle and the needle.  Get it right, and you have nice stitches.  Get it wrong: no stitches and/or broken machine. Anne describes the agony she went through to get this right. https://www.google.com/search?q=hook+timing+sewing+machine&oq=timing+sewing+mac hine&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j69i60j0l4.30799j1j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 http://www.parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/66.pdf  

Most online tutorials deal with rotary hook machines (Most post WWI machines).  If you have an oscillating hook or a shuttle machine, you will have to look harder to find help if the timing is off.  Try ​http://ismacs.net/​ or Facebook vintage sewing machine pages.

You can also try and preserve the timing of your machine before you cut it in half by “match marking” the body and the shafts in a set position of the hand wheel, say, Top Dead Center with the needle as high up as it will go.  Preserve the relative relationships of your “Match Marks” (on BOTH ends of the upper shaft in particular) and you should be at least close.                                                         I want to thank, Ryan for his great work on writing this up.

Celtic Knot wall hanging, Part 1

  I have always wanted to make a quilt with Celtic designs I have practice drawing them over and over. I have choose to use the Triguetra or also called the Trinity knot. The Triguetra means: mind, body and spirit. The Trinity knot means: Father, Son and Holy Spirit. So here is what I have done:   

Materials used: 1 yard orange fabric, 1 yard white fabric  and I will be using 1 yard of white fabric for the backing. 38 by 44 inch batting. Latter I will use scraps of green and other colors for leafs and flowers.                                                                                              I folded my orange fabric at a angle to get the bias and then folded it again to make it smaller to cut.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

Trim the edge were you cut to get a even edge. Then cut your strips 1 1/4 inches wide. Cut as many as you can.

 I then took the the left over piece of fabric and folded it on the bias and cut more strips. Just wanted to make sure I had enough strips.

I used my 12 ml single bias maker, pulled them threw, ironing them as I went.

 Here is the paper I drew my knot on. I used a drawing compass to make my drawing. I pinned my bias tape to the paper.

As you can see I went over one when the lines meet up then under the next time. When I need to add another  piece of bias I did it at a under space, even if I had to cut off excess bias. Then added the new piece and same under space. That way there are no ends showing.

Once I had gone all the way around I press it and starched it several times. I wanted it to hold its shape really well.I then unpinned it.

 I lightly pressed a small line in the center of my top fabric to make a cross to line up my Celtic knot. Slide the knot off of the paper and on to the fabric. I did it this way because I did not want to draw on my fabric. Lined it all up till I thought it looked good. I pinned it again and pressed it again.

 The glue I am using is Aleene's Fabric Fusion. I stared taking the pins out a few at a time and just ran a small line of glue as I went. Once done I used my hands a pressed down to make sure it it was stuck down,

I let it dry 24 hours.

Next I sewed some of my strips together and lined them around my drawing, pinning and pressing with starch  to make it stiff. Unpinned and slid it off and on to my fabric, Pinned and presses then Taking pins out and gluing. My circle is a little wonky. I need to practice doing circles.

 I wanted to have some kind of design on the edge so I wove two bias tapes in a design with the top of the corners in a point. Chancing out the bias tape at the under sections when needed. Always going over and under. At the end I ended up with two unders. With Celtic knots you can't have more then two sections the same, over and unders.

Still working on it.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         It looks uneven but it is not. Just the way its hanging. I am going to sew it on the machine. Then I will put leaves and other things on it, not sure yet. Good start. What do you think? This is new to me.                                                                 

Building Skill Blocks 6

 Today we will be making a block that looks like a Saw Tooth star. Except, from what I can tell they are cut and put together different.                                                                                                                   What we need: 12, 3 1/2 inch squares for what ever color you want your star. 12, 3 1/2 squares for the back ground colors. Fabric marking pen, rotary cutter, cutting mat, 3 1/2 square ruler, a quilters ruler.

The marking and cutting on this square I do a little different. You need 8, 3 1/2 inch star colors and 8, 3 1/2  back ground colors. Face the outside of your back ground color toward the outside of the star colors. Mark from corner to corner just a less then 1/8 of a inch up, marking a diagonal line, Go up 1/4 inch and mark second line and lastly go up 1/4 inch again marking 3rd line. Sew the outside lines. Cut on center line and press both pieces to the dark fabric. you will have two 1/2 square triangles, one 3 1/2 inches and one 2 1/2 inches. Set the 2 1/2  half square triangle aside. We will be using them in the next block. Do the other 7 half square triangle. Put all                                                          the 2 1/2 square triangles to the side

    Play around with you squares and see what works best for you. I taught myself to quilt. At the time there was no internet, and I could not afford to buy books. Just do what works for you, this is one of my ways.                                                                                                    Here is the layout.

Sew the top row together and nest your seams even the diagonal ones. Remove pins as you get to them. Press to the right. Sew the second row the same and press to the left. Sew the 3rd row the same as the others and press to the right. Sew the fourth like the others and press to the left.

Time to sew all rows together. Pin the first row to the second row, nesting all seams. Remove pins as you get to them, and press seams open. Sew the top part to the 3rd row, nesting all seams. removing pins as you get to them. Press seams open. Now sew the top part to the last row, again pin and nest all seams. Sew and remove pins as you get to them. Press open. I stayed with the Left over fabrics, because that is what I am making all the blocks out of. If you like what I am doing so far let me know. show me what you have done. next time a smaller star with the half square triangles we had left over. Thank you for joining me.

Building skill blocks 5

We are moving right along. In this part I will show you how to make stars with what we have learned. The first star is called a Friendship star.                                                                                                 Fabrics needed for this block:4, 4 1/2 inch colored squares, 1, 4 1/2 square, what ever color you want your star, mine will be gray. 2, 5 inch squares any color and 2, 5 inch squares the color of your star. You will need your 4 1/2 inch square ruler, a larger square ruler to make 5 inch squares ( I have a 5 inch square ruler or I would use my 6 1/2 square ruler), straight quilters ruler and a fabric marker. We will be using our cutting mat and rotary cutter.                                                                                         

We need the 2, 5 inch colored squares, the color of your star and the other 2, 5 inch squares other colors. I am making half square triangles like we did in part 4. Using your quilters ruler draw a line from corner to corner on the lightest  square. With the ruler make a second line 1/4 inch above the first line. Then mark another line with the ruler 1/4 inch below the first line. You now have three lines, the first line is in the center. Place the opposite colored fabric on the bottom, so that the outsides are facing each other.

Sew on the two outside lines. Cut the center line and press towards the darkest fabric. Do the seconded half square triangle the same. You now have 4 half square triangles for your star points. Square both to 4 1/2 inch squares.

 Sew the first row together using 1/4 inch seams. Sew the middle row together using 1/4 inch seams and sew the bottom row together same as the other two. Press top row to the right. Press middle row to the left. Press bottom row to the right.                                             

 Lets sew the rows together. Pin the top row to the middle row nesting your seams and sew. Remember to remove the pins as you get to them. Press your seam open. The top section and the last row,  pin and nest your seams together then sew. Remove your pins as you get to them. Press the seam open.   

We now have our first star. It is called a friendship star. Do you like it? We will make some smaller ones later, this is a good star to add other quilting elements to. 

Just Wanna Quilt Block Challenge

I have a group on face book that I belong to called Just Wanna Quilt. I really enjoy this group. They have a block challenge going on until January 15th. We are making common pool blocks, at  #JustWannaQuilt or  #OurCommonPoolQuiltBlockChallenge2019.  Come on over and see whats going on.  I chose to do a Friendship Star Block. Playing around with squares and rectangles, you can come up with a lot of blocks. Most blocks you come up with most likely already have a name, just like this one. I gave my block my own twist. I hope you like it.

                                     
 

The Crazy Cousin Quilt Store

 If any one is ever in the Fredricksburg Va. area, you should go check out The Crazy Cousin Quilt Store.  http://www.thecrazycousin.com/ I really love that store. Every time I have gone there the staff is so friendly and helpful.                                                                                                                               I don't always buy much, just usually what I need or what I think I need. A pair of quilting gloves, needles, a ruler or two, thread and of course fabric. They have a shelf in the back with fabric in two yard packs $5.99 a yard, $6.99 a yard and $7.99 a yard. There are tables that have fabric in the bolt for $5.99 a year and $6.99 yard.                                                                                                                                     They sell long arm quilting machines and sewing machines too. I just love the simply sixteen that is set up on a little foot quilt frame. I have gotten to play with it a couple of times, even though I told them I could not buy it.                                                                                                                        I am trying out some of the good quilting threads and they have Wonderfil, Signature and Aurifil. I sure they have more I just can't remember. Aurifil is the first one I am trying, it has to better then from Joann's fabric store. I will let you know.   What kind of thread do you use?                                                                                           

Fabric and Thread I bought this time. 

Building skill blocks 4

  In this part we will be making 3 blocks from 6 1/2 square triangles. so lets get started.

 Make four 6 1/2 square triangles and arrange them like so. I do not believe this block has a name, I just like the way it looks. If any one knows if has a name let me know.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

Sew the top two together, there are no points to match. Press to right or left. Sew the bottom two  together, press in the opposite direction. Sew the top to the bottom, making sure to nest the seams. Press open.

So this is the way block 8 looks.

In block 9 we use four 6 1/2 square triangles, and place them like so. Now this block is called a Hour Glass Block. Sew the top two 1/2 square triangles together, making sure to line up the center point. Press right or left. Sew the bottom Two 1/2 square triangles again making sure to line up the point. Press in the opposite direction.

Nest your middle seams together, trying to match up your point. Sew and press open.

Here is a picture of the points matching up.

Your hour Glass Block is now complete.

The Pin Wheel Block, it is not one of my favorite blocks, only because I find it hard to match the points up perfect all the time. Use four 6 1/2 square triangle blocks. Lay them out like the picture.

Pin the top two 1/2 square triangles together sew. press to the right or left. Pin and sew the bottom two 1/2 square triangles together. Press in the opposite direction.

This is now what your lay out looks like.

Its time to sew the bottom to the top. This is the tricky part. start my matching up the center point you will have to fill to make sure it is right. Then pin the triangle seams together matching them up. When you have it were you want it sew. After I sew it I always look to see if its right. If not I take it out and do it again, I have taken out a few. then Press your seams open.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Mine looks like a Take Shelter Here sign. Only because of the colors I used. We now have 10 blocks to use in our quilt. Have you enjoyed making your blocks so far? Share with me what you have done. The next part we will make our blocks smaller and see what we come up with. Thank you for joining me and let me know what you think.